A Local’s Guide to Udine, Italy: Modern Art and Cinema in a Former Ancient Capital | Holidays in Italy
We are spoiled for choice for eating in Udine. Prices are reasonable and Friulano’s cuisine is totally delicious. Don’t miss Al Vecchio Stallo, where I like the contrast between the two grizzled owners who crack jokes and only speak Friulano with the cooks, who are two bubbly West African women with a good knowledge of the local cuisine. The food is totally traditional – frico (fried cheese), salami cooked in vinegar and brovada (fermented greens, similar to sauerkraut) and delicate cjarsons (sweet/salty stuffed pasta). Two restaurants with exceptional wine lists are Hostaria alla Tavernetta and Michele’s Osteria. Check out the Sunday Mercato del Cormor, where farmers sell their homemade vegetables, cheeses and salamis. For a morning treat, sip hot chocolate in the sumptuous art nouveau Cafe Contarenawith a perfect view of the 15th century Torre dell’Orologio on the other side of the square.
As a woman, I was delighted when the city’s old fish market was transformed into Tina Modotti Galleryafter an inspiring artist and pioneering photographer born in Udine and who paved the way to Mexico and Moscow in the 1920s. I also like the Sala Rossa of the Diocesan Museum, where Tiepolo’s frescoes create an incredible, almost fantastic perspective. Our new modern Art Museumin the 16th century Casa Cavazzini, also takes you into a world of frescoes, this time painted in the 1930s by the Basaldella brothers from Udine. On a personal note, I’m proud that Visionarythe arthouse cinema that we created in 2004 is also an art centre, with exhibitions, concerts, video installations, poetry and literature as well as five cinema screens.
Piazza Primo Maggio is also called the Giardin Grande, legend has it that it was created in the hole left by the soldiers of Attila the Hun who built the imposing hill of the fortress, today surmounted by the castle of the city. This vast green space is surrounded by spectacular buildings, including the Madonna delle Grazie Church and the Udine Conservatory, where students congregate at Bar Beethoven on its south side. The cobbled, tree-lined streets next to the square include Via Verdi, which runs along a small canal, and Via Porta Nuova, home to the best pizza in town, at Concordia. The square is also the site of markets, concerts, open-air cinema and our most famous festival, the Fiera della Santa Caterina, which has been held every November since 1485. It’s two weeks of celebration with stalls of food, souvenirs and giosterold-fashioned rides and fairground rides.
Although Udine is a small, compact city, we have many gardens, green squares and parks. My favorite for a quiet Passeggiata is the intimate, the elegant Ricasoli Garden. With its ancient shady trees, statues and fountains, the 19th century garden can feel like your own private fairy tale. La Roggia di Palma, one of the two canals of Udine, crosses it and lovers of walking or cycling can follow a way along its banks towards the countryside.
Although there’s a large student population here, it’s the locals that rock the nightlife scene, with bars packed from 6 p.m. happy hour. In most places, a glass of wine, a tajut in Friulano, costs only €1. The largest selection of bars is found in the triangle between Via Mercatovecchio, Via Paolo Sarpi and Largo del Pecile. Start drinking here and you never know what time you’ll be home. Two traditional osteria not to be missed are Al Cappello and the hoarse Pierimortadele. the Tavern dell’Angeloback to the Ricasoli, looks like a pub whiskytecabut a new generation of cocktail bars is also opening up. Gatti and Reon Via Jacopo Marinoni, offers many unusual drink recipes.
Great Astoria Hotel (double 109 € B&B) is the best address, right in the center. The Asian stars of the festival love staying there, especially Jackie Chan!
Sabrina Baracetti is president of Udine Far East Film Festival (April 22-30), which she founded 22 years ago in the historic capital of the Italian region of Friuli, to promote Asian cinema